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When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.